Review Requests and Random Stuff

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Atropos
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Re: Review Requests and Random Stuff

Post by Atropos » Sun Feb 07, 2016 4:52 pm

fabienne wrote:There is a study of the Rubens' Sampson and Delilah in the Cincinnati Art Museum!

Very cool!

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Re: Review Requests and Random Stuff

Post by Annemathematics » Sun Feb 07, 2016 9:14 pm

I love all of the artwork in this thread and in this release!

I narrowed down the many many tempting ladies to three: lola montez (I do love the use of color in that film, and labdanum and musk in the bottle. I'll have to time it so that I can re-watch the movie while testing this!), mata hari (vetiver, patch AND black musk?) and lady caro (artemisia with tears of frankincense).

I eagerly await reviews for bernice and wallis warfield. I love fabienne's grapefruit note and one might assume that I am set with grapefruit perfumes to last a lifetime, but the Girl in White from the Yules proved me very wrong. so the question remains: dragon's blood or sandalwood. it is a dilemma I'm most please to endure. virginia sounds like the lilac version of putti riot. I grew up in a city that loves and celebrates the lilac, and so have a fondness for this scent. I can only imagine that this will be a beauty.

judith and salome both sound stunning with all of those resins. I love that I can bring up salome in a search by entering the word, "pulp."

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Re: Review Requests and Random Stuff

Post by marisaviola » Mon Feb 08, 2016 10:45 am

Delilah is definitely one I am interested in, and also have my eye on Judith and Mata Hari! I have ordered a number of decants from Angi as so many in this collection (yes, including Wallis and Virginia the Countess) looked like something I really wanted to try and maybe get bottles of. I kept adding to my order with Angi who is very long-suffering and patient!

Fabienne, re: Delilah, I had a question about the luan wood you mentioned using. I remember you used it in "Flying Horse" which is a blend that I love, and some other blends I like, such as "Angst." Could you please give me more detail about its species name and what it smells like? When I looked it up it sounds like the term "luan or lauan" is used of the Shorea genus of trees and there are a number of names in that family--including Luan, Philippine Mahogany, and Meranti. There is a species called Shorea Robusta from India that is usually called "Sal" so I was not sure which one you were using. Often the term luan or lauan wood is used commercially for hardwood and plywood but did not know much about it otherwise so I appreciate finding out more. Thank you so much!

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Re: Review Requests and Random Stuff

Post by fabienne » Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:31 pm

Luan wood used to be used as a decorative sort of scenting wood. I have an old very pure silver cigarette case from the 1930s which is lined in luan wood just so the cigarettes would smell lovely. I have always thought it was very special until recently when you see it as part of plywood in just about every hardware store out there! Quelle horror, you might say. However, good is good and I got quite a treat when I found out that my kitchen flooring had to be cut through for minor repairs. The repairman started up his saw and ooo la la....the scent of that friction-burnt luan was ah-MA-ZING. It lingered, too. Just beautiful.

Alas, I can't get a burnt luan essential oil, but I can get the regular stuff and it's pretty rare. You have to get a friend who will help you out here because it isn't one of the biggies, and I have friends in this town who can do remarkable things (this is a HUGE flavor and fragrance city because of Procter and Gamble and there are trade association, too, which have been a great help to me...notably the Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce group which has some of the nicest people I know in it). I don't think that anyone else uses luan as part of their repertoire and that is just fine with me. Exploring the wonders of wood is a very very interesting part of my job.
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Re: Review Requests and Random Stuff

Post by marisaviola » Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:50 pm

Hi, Fabienne,

Thank you so much for taking the time to cover luan wood and its historical background and uses--that was very educating and very helpful. I usually look things up that I am not familiar with and after loving Flying Horse I had looked it up and found nothing. Then when it came up again with Delilah and I did further research, all I found was the horreur of plywood, which was pretty mystifying and seemed strange. I'm wondering if it might also be what is called "Sal" wood in India (Shorea Robusta)? That apparently has resin that is used in making incense and perfumery. White Lotus currently has a rare amount of that for sale from a small distiller in India. A perfumer friend told me that a year or so ago she had come across a small company that specialized in many types of wood distillations and they had some "plywood" type wood distilled as an experiment of using the whole tree so there was no waste. This was a "one of a kind" type of distillation, it sounded like. But I don't know if it was the same thing as luan--she is pretty sure it was from the Sal tree.

It sounds like you have some amazing resources through your connections in Cincinnati! That is wonderful and until you mentioned it, I had not realized how big Cincinnati is in the fragrance and flavoring world.

I really appreciate your sharing the knowledge, and now I will especially cherish having some blends that contain it--it sounds like it's unique and pretty rare these days in terms of being distilled. I'll have to try to smell some of the wood sometime!

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Re: Review Requests and Random Stuff

Post by Apollonia » Tue Feb 09, 2016 7:13 am

katiushka wrote:I LOVE Gentileschi! If memory serves me correctly, she is the painter who was raped by her colleague, yes? Which is why many of her paintings portray images of female strength. I love how her Judith, for instance, is not the sleek seductress portrayed by other painters. She's a real woman hell-bent on her goal! Very practical, too. Love her foresight in bringing a basket for the head :grin:
Many, many years ago I wrote an essay comparing Gentileschi's Judith with Caravaggio's. I basically came to the conclusion that Caravaggio's Judith was how men saw women at the time; disgusted by blood and violence and apprehensive about participating in it, while Gentileschi saw women as they really were; people who gave birth, menstruated, slaughtered and prepared animals for meals, and tended the sick and injured. Gentileschi's Judith is a physically powerful woman who had a job to do and got stuck in to do it. She is intimately involved in the murder and her servant is her equal in strength and brutality. Caravaggio's Judith is keeping the violence at arms length and her servant is physically frail and off to the side holding a towel for her to wipe her hands when she's done. It's such a stark contrast in presentation.

What's even more awful about her rape, is Gentileschi insisted on testifying against her attacker which was not acceptable from a woman in Italy at the time. The law stated that a woman's testimony could only be accepted if it was gained under torture, so she had to give evidence while being tortured by thumbscrews.

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Re: Review Requests and Random Stuff

Post by fabienne » Tue Feb 09, 2016 9:51 am

It's pretty easy to find luan wood. Go to the hardware store and then to where they have sheets of plywood. They always have it there. It's a scream that something which smells this beautiful can be found anywhere and isn't thought of as being a big scenting agent.
I have sniffed the Panties of Ptah!

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Re: Review Requests and Random Stuff

Post by katiushka » Tue Feb 09, 2016 5:24 pm

Apollonia wrote:
katiushka wrote:I LOVE Gentileschi! If memory serves me correctly, she is the painter who was raped by her colleague, yes? Which is why many of her paintings portray images of female strength. I love how her Judith, for instance, is not the sleek seductress portrayed by other painters. She's a real woman hell-bent on her goal! Very practical, too. Love her foresight in bringing a basket for the head :grin:
Many, many years ago I wrote an essay comparing Gentileschi's Judith with Caravaggio's. I basically came to the conclusion that Caravaggio's Judith was how men saw women at the time; disgusted by blood and violence and apprehensive about participating in it, while Gentileschi saw women as they really were; people who gave birth, menstruated, slaughtered and prepared animals for meals, and tended the sick and injured. Gentileschi's Judith is a physically powerful woman who had a job to do and got stuck in to do it. She is intimately involved in the murder and her servant is her equal in strength and brutality. Caravaggio's Judith is keeping the violence at arms length and her servant is physically frail and off to the side holding a towel for her to wipe her hands when she's done. It's such a stark contrast in presentation.

What's even more awful about her rape, is Gentileschi insisted on testifying against her attacker which was not acceptable from a woman in Italy at the time. The law stated that a woman's testimony could only be accepted if it was gained under torture, so she had to give evidence while being tortured by thumbscrews.
How terrible!! Thank goodness that people have fought for human rights throughout the ages. It's not just "a different time" that we live in - it took so much effort to get here. And still more to be done. Really inspires me to keep working tirelessly for it!

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Re: Review Requests and Random Stuff

Post by Minh Scent » Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:56 pm

Totally rivited to the conversation about luan wood, Marisaviola and Fabienne!!
Delilah sounds ravishing with all those beautiful woods!

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Re: Review Requests and Random Stuff

Post by Atropos » Thu Feb 11, 2016 12:57 am

Apollonia wrote:
katiushka wrote:I LOVE Gentileschi! If memory serves me correctly, she is the painter who was raped by her colleague, yes? Which is why many of her paintings portray images of female strength. I love how her Judith, for instance, is not the sleek seductress portrayed by other painters. She's a real woman hell-bent on her goal! Very practical, too. Love her foresight in bringing a basket for the head :grin:
Many, many years ago I wrote an essay comparing Gentileschi's Judith with Caravaggio's. I basically came to the conclusion that Caravaggio's Judith was how men saw women at the time; disgusted by blood and violence and apprehensive about participating in it, while Gentileschi saw women as they really were; people who gave birth, menstruated, slaughtered and prepared animals for meals, and tended the sick and injured. Gentileschi's Judith is a physically powerful woman who had a job to do and got stuck in to do it. She is intimately involved in the murder and her servant is her equal in strength and brutality. Caravaggio's Judith is keeping the violence at arms length and her servant is physically frail and off to the side holding a towel for her to wipe her hands when she's done. It's such a stark contrast in presentation.

What's even more awful about her rape, is Gentileschi insisted on testifying against her attacker which was not acceptable from a woman in Italy at the time. The law stated that a woman's testimony could only be accepted if it was gained under torture, so she had to give evidence while being tortured by thumbscrews.
Damn as if the rape and talking about it wasn't torture enough! Thumbscrews? She was one tough lady, I was right. Did he get off or did he actually get punished? It's so rare for them to pay for it.

I too prefer her version as it's shows a woman whose not afraid to get it done. I am the ass kicker in my relationship, my husband is a lover not a fighter. So it baffles me when someone thinks that because I'm female I a) can't take pain or b) couldn't stand to dole out pain if needed (in defense of course) but I am the one who will fuck you up, not my male husband. He takes crap, I don't. I just find Caravaggio's so silly that it makes me laugh, the "oooh it's messy quick, I need a towel!" thing, and her expression.

Fabienne, your info on luan wood is fantastic! I never knew, and I love that note. Now I have even more respect for it, even if it does get relegated to cheap building materials. Well in perfume I love it. And thank goodness for your connections!

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